Olo, Kiko’o, and Alaia Surfboards

Greg Knoll checking the swell

Surfing was not invented in California, and it was not invented for fun. It began here, in the Hawaiian Islands, as heʻe nalu — literally “wave sliding” — and for centuries it was woven so tightly into Hawaiian life that it had its own gods, its own chants, its own sacred law, and its own […]